Nova Scotia, From Yarmouth to Halifax to Digby.

Not all places on the planet are created equal for a creative. There are locations where the spirit of a place speaks louder to those wishing to listen. You get in touch with that message through the people, their use of art, how they build their buildings, what they think of themselves, and how they treat you. So, when we get to a place that we feel totally accepted, tolerated, and peaceful we tend to pay attention. In July of 2017 we took one of our massive “when is it going to end” road trips all the way from Tampa, Florida to Halifax, Nova Scotia. We had lots of stops along the way but they are stories for another time. The place that became the most important to us on the trip was Nova Scotia. We crossed on the ferry from Portland, Maine to Yarmouth. As we entered through the customs at almost midnight, all the officer wanted to be sur of was that I did not have any firearms with me. There is a very different mindset about weapons there. The next day we drove up the east coast stopping in every amazing village we could find finally ending up for three days in Halifax before returning via another route along the northwestern coast to a ferry that runs from Digby, Nova Scotia to Saint John, New Brunswick. We have spent hours discussing what spoke to us both in almost every location. One of our favorite places was Lunenburg, an amazing village on the southeast coast. It is a UNESCO World Heritage site with many of its historical buildings still intact and in use. It was the people that caught us by surprise. They knew all about their city, all about their province, all about their country, and quite frankly a great deal about the world. They were also interested in us as Americans. They asked questions and actually listened to the answers. Another heart stopper was Halifax. It is an international cosmopolitan city with a soul. It not only is diverse; it embraces the diversity. It has an innocence about it that we, here in the U.S. may have lost. Upon checking in to the hotel, the desk clerk asked how our trip up from Yarmouth had been. I answered that I was shocked that I didn’t see a police officer anywhere and that everyone was going the speed limit. He smiled and responded totally sincerely, “well speeding is against the law up here you know and we take it seriously.” He was right. The city is proud of its substantial history, architecture, and public art on almost every block. As we walked, we came upon a park with a piano chained to a tree. We sat to catch our breath and within minutes someone walked up, sat down and started playing. Soon there were others. The spirit of the arts was everywhere blending the historical with the radically modern. As we walked, we learned the story of the city from the city itself and its people. The waterfront had an amazing year-round indoor farmer’s market that was full of great music, food and local goods. It made us both long for a place with kitchen. A great deal of that waterfront had been destroyed in one of the worst disasters caused by human hands. On December 6, 1917, two ships collided in the bay adjacent to the harbor. One was loaded with explosives that ignited and blew up. Approximately 2,000 people were killed by the blast and the collapsing buildings. Another 9000 were injured and the tragedy set off one of the largest and most difficult relief efforts ever attempted. December in Nova Scotia means snow and ice. In 1917 there were no airlifts or parachute drops of supplies. Almost everyone we came in contact with in the city from people on the street to people engaged in the tourist industry could tell you about that catastrophe. So why do I include this. This isn't a travel blog! As a writer I focus on places, people, and things that inspire. It's just the way my mind works. We were both moved by the visit to Nova Scotia The vibe created by the people and the place was just that different. Don’t get me wrong, we have found very cool places in this country that you will read about here. But that leg of the trip was defined by the place, the people, the art and the soul.